Urban Contractors

For over the past 20 years the staff of Urban Contractors have installed an estimated 500 septic systems, throughout British Columbia, ranging from the basic Type 1 septic system to the more sophisticated Type 3 on site waste water treatment plants. Providing our customers with the highest standard in quality and workmanship is our main focus. Over the past 6-7 years, changes to the Ministry of Health’s involvement with septic approvals and the introduction of the new ROWPs program has had a significant impact on the increased cost for a new or repaired septic system. Urban Contractors understanding the need to charge a far and sensible price for its service so has adopted several practises to reduce the overall cost to its customers.

Please call 1-877-290-8006 today for details on how you can save thousands on your septic system.

What are septic systems?

Septic systems are considered to be on-site systems designed to safely dispose of biological sanitary waste. “Gray water”, such as laundry waste, kitchen and bathroom sinks, showers and toilets are part of the waste water septic system.

How do septic systems work?

Basically a septic system provides a “holding Tank” where natural bacterial action, aerobic, decomposes human waste products into environmentally acceptable components – the major end-components being water, mixed with some other components that are not readily consumed by the bacterial action, gases, and undigested solids. The end products, except the undigested solids, are then discharged to the on-site septic field that uses an anerobic action to decompose the grey water naturally in the soil.

What are the components of a septic system?

The things that are most obvious are the things seen every day – the sinks, toilets, and pipes in a normal house. What are not visible are the things that are underground; the things that are underground, and the ground itself, greatly impact how a septic system works. The individual parts of the system are the septic tank, a distribution box, and a leach field or more commonly called a drain field. Bacterial action takes place in the septic tank where the end products are mainly water, gases, and undigested material, called sludge that sinks to the bottom of the tank and scum that floats to the top of the tank. The septic tank contains baffles that prevent any scum that floats to the surface and sludge that settles to the bottom from passing out of the tank. The gases that are generated vent to the atmosphere via the plumbing vent system from your building. From the septic tank, the segregated and relatively clear liquid flows into a small distribution box where it is then metered out to several perforated pipes called drain field lines. These perforated pipes then deliver the liquid to a large soil surface area, called a drain field, leach field, or absorption field, for absorption. The soil also acts as a filter to remove any small amounts of solids that may be carried along with the liquid. The sludge in the bottom of the tank must be periodically pumped out and properly disposed of.

The two pictures below are one of many types of systems used in the drain field.

Where are septic system components located?

The concrete, or sometimes plastic, septic tank is buried in the ground, usually with in 10 feet from the house. Depending on the terrain, the top of the tank is usually about one foot below the soil surface so it can be periodically opened for inspection and pumping. (Today’s standards require all access holes to the septic tank and the distribution box have risers to the ground surface to allow easy access). If you have an older system without risers, it is recommended that risers be installed to provide easy access and periodic servicing. If you do not know for sure where the tank is located, try to locate where the sewer pipe leaves the house. In a house with a basement, this is where the pipe passes through the exterior concrete wall. Locating the exit point may be more difficult for a house with no basement. If the pipe exit can be found, the tank normally begins between 3 to 10 feet from the house outside foundation and in line with the house sewer pipe. If you can’t find the septic tank call Urban Contractors for additional suggestions on how to locate the tank. The elusive distribution box is much smaller than the septic tank and is usual found with in 3 to 20 feet from the septic tank. It too is usually only about one foot below the ground. You can probe the soil carefully to locate the distribution box with a slender metal rod or contact the local building inspectors’ office to see if they have your “as-built” or septic drawing on file. The best way to locate the distribution box is by using an electronic locator. (Again contact us for information on properly locating your system.) From the distribution box, several pipes direct liquid to a series of pipes in trenches called laterals. The pipes in the trenches have holes in them to allow the liquid to be evenly distributed within the length of the trench. To keep the pipes from being blocked with soil and to provide a space for water to be stored while it is being absorbed by the soil, the pipes are laid in a bed of washed drain rock. Above the drain rock is a soil filter (usually one layer of what is called untreated building paper or a synthetically made filter cloth). Above the soil filter is top soil in which grass is planted. The drain field is normally 12 – 24 inches below the surface

Why do Septic Systems Fail?

If the liquid effluent cannot soak into the soil surrounding the drain field, sewage may back up into the system and overflow into the house or puddle on the surface of the ground. There are several possible causes for this problem.

• Poor Soil Conditions: Faulty Design or Installation, field system placed in unsuitable soil, a system that is too small for the house it serves, or an improperly constructed system may lead to early failure.
• Soil Clogging: If sludge or scum is allowed to escape into the distribution box and from there into the drain field, the soil will quickly become clogged with a black tar substance. If this happens, the liquid will no longer soak, or percolate, into the native soil. This condition can be caused by broken baffles in the concrete tank or plastic tees not being properly glued and falling off. (We advise all our customers to check the condition of the septic tank outlet at least every 4 years to confirm the outlet baffle or plastic tee has not fallen off. The aerobic action in your septic tank eats away the concrete baffle and the baffles simply fall off over a period of time allowing solids from the septic tank to migrate to the drain field) Not pumping the septic tank regularly will allow sludge or scum to escape through the tee and into the drain filed. It is highly recommended a filter be installed in your outlet tee to stop any sludge or scum from entering your field. Pumping the septic tank every 3 – 4 years and cleaning the outlet filter will extend the life of your field for many, many more years.
• High Water Table: During wet, or abnormally wet, seasons groundwater may rise into the drain field and force sewage upward to the ground surface. This condition may mean the system has to be re-installed at a higher level. It may also be possible to intercept the high groundwater with a series of drains around the system called “curtain drains”.
• Faulty Design or Installation: As a contractor Urban Contractors has repaired and installed over 500 septic systems in the Okanagan valley. Our 20 years of experience has taught us the common factors that lead to installation failures. There are typically 5 basic errors that contribute to a premature septic failure: 1) The use of poor materials like non CSA approved pipes, poor fittings and poorly glued joints. These will all cause leaks in the system and allow multiple issues like settling pipes, soil contamination in the pipes and entry points for tree roots to contaminate and fill the septic system. 2) Inadequate amounts of drain rock in the septic field that substantially reduces the field’s effectiveness and life cycle. 3) Poor compaction around the septic tank, causing pipes to break or slump creating blockage and plugs. 4) Contractors inability to use a hand-level correctly when grading pipes to drain properly into the septic tank or the drain field. Natural hydraulic water pressure keeps pushing the septic waste forward to the septic tank or drain field but, a pipe sloping the incorrect direction will overtime allow solids to build up in the pipe and will cause a failure or plugged pipe. 5) Contractors or installers not installing the required amount of drain field as requested by the engineer or designer. This is essentially an ethics issue, as poor workmanship or lack of respect to customers and regulatory bodies when contractors deceive the public by failing to install the recommended amount of drain field. Urban Contractors recognizes and addresses the typical 5 errors, indicated above, with a 20 year history of successful installations, attention to customer service, quality workmanship and the highest degree to integrity.
• Roots: The roots of trees and bushes planted too close to the system can sometimes enter and block the pipes of the system. Removal of the plants and clearing the pipes of the roots is required although the prospect of saving your field once the roots have entered the field is nearly impossible. A new drain field would most likely be necessary at that time.
• Physical Damage: Trucks or heavy equipment passing over the system can damage the distribution box, pipes and joints to the point of rendering the system inoperable. You should be aware of the location of the system and direct traffic to avoid such damage.

How long should a septic system last?

You can expect a conventional septic system, such as that being described here, to last about 20 – 30 years. Some systems last much longer and some systems can fail earlier for reasons like those noted above. Other things can also affect the life of a septic system. For example, a system may have been providing satisfactory service for a previous owner for many years, only to fail shortly after you have bought the house. If the previous owners were a working couple with no children, the system was probably not heavily used; if yours is a family of six, the added load could push a marginal system over the edge and into failure. Maintenance is the key factor for the survival of your septic system. ( See below: “When should I pump my septic tank?”)

What are the signs of a failing system?

Sewage backup into the home is one possible sign of a failing system. However, backup can also be simply the result of a blockage somewhere between the house and the septic tank (this is relatively easy to fix as normally the inlet or outlet pipes that have settled near the tank. This settling causes a low spot or breakage in the pipe). Another possible sign of failure is a smell of sewage outside the house. If this smell is more noticeable after a lot of water has been put into the system – multiple showers or several loads of laundry this may be an indication that the septic field is failing. The smell may also be accompanied by a “spongy” feeling in some areas of the drain field, near the distribution box, or near the septic tank. The “spongy” feel may be caused by water and waste being pushed to or near ground level. If ponding water is also seen, this is called “breakthrough or breakout” and is an almost positive indication of failure of one or more parts of the system. This smell, however, can also originate at the plumbing vent. In either case, further investigation is warranted. If you see such signs, a dye test may confirm your suspicions. For this test, a special strong dye is put in the system – usually by flushing it down the toilet. A significant amount of water is then washed into the system. If there is “breakthrough”, the dye will become visible on the ground surface. If the dye is seen on the surface, this would be a very strong indication that the system has failed. Your Home Inspector, a contractor like Urban Contractors, can usually perform this test for you if it is needed.

Sludge build up in a septic pipe.

When should I pump my septic tank?

In the “old days” pumping out the septic tank was not as necessary, then, as is required today. Many “Old Timers” will still tell you, today, that you never need to pump your septic tank or that you should only pump it ever 10 years or more. That may have been the case 25 – 30 years ago but, today we consume substantially more water and drain gallons and gallons of cleaners and chemicals into the septic tank every day. Chemicals kill the natural bacteria required for your septic system to operate properly. In addition, years ago the laundry water and sinks drained into a separate “grey water” field and not into your septic tank. Once the bacteria action dies in your septic tank solids will build up and discharge into the drain field. In a very short period of time your septic system will have a catastrophic failure and you will be faced with a large repair bill. We recommend pumping your septic tank every 3 to 4 years and have a professional like Urban Contractors install a $30 filter (plus installation) in the outlet of the septic tank to control the amount of sludge that potentially can drain into your field. Clean the filter every 3 to 4 years or during the pumping of the septic tank. This kind of maintenance program will save you thousands of dollars and keep you flushing for many more years.

If I plan on repairing, installing, or replacing a system, what should I expect?

There are two major factors involved in adding a new system or repairing or replacing an existing one. The first is the cost; the second is the inconvenience of possibly not being able to use the existing system while a replacement is being installed. Normally the home owners inconvenience is limited to 2 or 3 hours while the old system is being adapted to the new system. For new construction, the second factor is not usually a major consideration. Repair or replacement cost will obviously depend on what has to be repaired and/or replaced. If the repair does not involve the drain field, the cost may not be that high. The least expensive repair will be associated with a broken or sagged pipe between the distribution box and the house. Normally the problem arises around the inlet and outlet pipes with in 5 feet of the septic tank. The cost for this type of repair is in the order of several hundred dollars. If only a septic tank needs to be replaced – and the drain field is still undamaged – the cost will be in the order of about $2500 to $3500. If a whole new drain field, including the septic tank, is needed you should plan on spending $8000 to $10000 for a typical home. The new regulations in B.C. require more lag time in the septic tank. This lag time allows the bacteria in the septic better opportunity to organically reduce the percentages of solids being sent out to the distribution box or drain field. Often a larger septic tank or an additional septic tank(s) is required to meet today’s standards. The old 600 – 800 gallon septic tanks are being replaced by the 1000 – 1200 gallon tanks.

In B.C. we refer to the septic system as; “Type 1″, “Type 2″ and “Type 3″. Type I systems are considered to be your basic septic system as discussed above. Type 2 systems use an on-site sewage treatment plant and the Type 3 systems also use an on-site sewage treatment plant with ultraviolet light or a chlorination process to kill off any live or deadly bacteria that many contaminate the environment. Type 2 and 3 septic systems are used in more sensitive areas like; near lakes, rivers, low water table or other sources of domestic water. These systems are priced specific to each property and will cost $20,000 or higher.

Urban Contractors provides its customers a free onsite estimate on all septic repairs and has over 20 years experience with all types of septic systems. We are not a Registered Onsite Wastewater Practitioner (R.O.W.P) but, instead use a local, very experienced, engineering firm for our design and approvals. The cost of the drawings and approval from our engineer is normally 60–80% lower than a registered R.O.W.P. Urban passes the savings of $1,500 – $2,000 directly to the customer.

If my family is growing and I add a new bedroom, what should I expect?

Septic systems are designed to dispose of household biological waste. The amount of waste to be handled depends on a number of factors. Among these are the number of bedrooms, bathrooms and square footage in the house, percolation rates of the soil and the geographic location of the property. After many years of experience, a major guideline in determining the size and capability of a septic system has been correlated to the number of bedrooms in a house. The number of bedrooms typically determines the number of people generating waste and hence the amount of waste that must be handled. If your family is growing and a new bedroom is needed, then the load on the septic system is also increased. If the septic system capability does not keep up with the increased demand, system failure may occur. So, how do you determine the septic system needs for your growing family? The formulas used today are fairly complicated depending on many factors as indicated above. If you are adding on to your home, your local building inspector will require you seek an R.O.W.P or an Engineer to asses your specific situation. Contact us today and we will help you in determine if you will be required to expand your drain field or install a larger septic tank to meet the new demand on your septic system.

How big should a septic tank be?

Septic tanks are sized according to the amount of liquid waste they must process. This is done by counting the number of bedrooms, square footage of the building, soil percolation rates etc. In the Okanagan the minimum size tank that can be installed is 1000 gallons.

How big should the drain field be?

Determining the required size of a drain field is a bit more complicated. The first thing to consider is the nature of the soil in which the drain field is to be constructed. Because water has to be absorbed in the soil, we need to know how fast it can be absorbed. This is called the percolation rate and is expressed as the time it takes for water in a test hole to decrease in level by one inch (minutes/inch). We must also know the type of soil and whether seasonal changes in the natural level of groundwater will interfere with the satisfactory operation of the system. Seasonal groundwater must be more than four feet from the bottom of the drain field trenches. Judgments regarding the soil conditions and percolation rates are best left to a professional engineer or a contractor like Urban. If the soil percolates very fast (less than one minute per inch) or very slow (greater than 60 minutes per inch) it will not be possible to install a standard drain field in the existing soil. We must now determine the amount of water that has to be absorbed each day. As with the septic tank sizing, there are also “rules of thumb” that can be used to find out how much water must be absorbed each day. The average home will use approximately 300 gallons per day. Knowing the rate at which water can be absorbed by the soil (the percolation rate) and the flow rate (in gallons per day), the engineer can determine the size of the septic tank and drain field.

What is gray water?

Gray water is water from your home like; the washer, sinks, showers and toilets. (all household water) This water contains human waste products. The water that flows out off your septic tank to the drain field is called grey water.

Types of septic systems:

The system discussed above is a conventional system installed in the soil that exists on the site. Where the site conditions do not lend themselves to installing this type of system, there are alternatives. For example, if ground water or percolation rates are unsuitable, it may be possible to install what is called a “mound” system. In a mound system, a suitable soil is placed above the unsuitable soil. A conventional system is then installed in the mound. There are some additional requirements for this type of design.

If there is not enough room for a conventional drain field, it may be possible to install one or more cesspools, or seepage beds. These units are usually rectangular, require less open ground, and are deeper than a conventional drain field. Again, there are specific requirements for these systems.

Conventional, mound, and seepage bed systems all work by what is called anerobic bacterial action. This means the bacteria work without oxygen. Some systems are designed to be aerobic – meaning the bacteria need oxygen (air); There are also hybrid systems that use a combination of anerobic and aerobic sections.

Urban Contractors in conjunction with our engineer will advise you if one of the non-conventional systems is best for your needs.

The Bionest Bioreactor is one type of system installed today